Fuligni, Paradiso di Manfredi, and more newly released Brunello/Rosso wines

My tasting of the newly release Brunello/Rosso/Brunello riserva wines continue. Some misses, but several good ‘hits’, too.

2014 Il Paradiso (Manfredi) Brunello di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – Wonderful. I’m really in love with the sous bois/soil aromas in this vintage, as they lend even more character, and freshness. The entry is medium-bodied, elegant, and also substantive in that power meets weightlessness kind of way. Fine tannins frame the long-ish finish which will likely improve in the coming 2-4 years. A classic effort that’s filled with soul, bravo! Sadly, just 7k bottles produced; drink 2021-2034. (93-96)
2016 Il Marroneto Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio
9/26/2019 – Comes across as a fruit bomb on the nose, complete with cherry phosphate, vanilla, and bland black berry fruit. The palate is simple, as is the finish. Not something I would drink even if free. That said, many no doubt will enjoy this style. 6,7k bottles produced; drink now. (NR)
2014 E. Fuligni (Cottimelli) Brunello di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – A bright nose filled with elegance, and charm. Vivid aromas of forest, soil, floral, and leather lead to a medium body showing grace, and purity. The finish is good/good(+), and it’s easily in the top of the 2014 Brunello wines. Will likely improve a bit from here. 14,0% abv.; drink 2020-2032. Just 20k bottles. (90-92)
2014 Fanti (Baldassarre) Filippo Brunello di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – These wines (always a value in today’s market) are consistently good, and for many, the easy price makes them that much more dear. What I consistently like about them is that they open/seem simple, but always have a little something hidden, in reserve if you will. And by that I mean character, complexity. To my palate, they’re better with a few years on them, as these hidden qualities usually begin to appear; the same can be said of many fine wines, and I count this estate’s wines in that category. Opens a bit rich in fruit aromas in this vintage, with a classic, medium-bodied palate. Not one for the ages, but I’d drink this without hesitation. 35k bottles produced; drink 2020-2028. (87-89)
2014 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – Lovely, elegant. Even in this vintage, I find the red-fruit, and soil aromas to be captivating. Some may see the nose/aromas as too forward to be considered classic, but the typicity, balance and charm here combine to form a long, satisfying finish. Just 4,2k bottles produced; drink 2020-2031. (90-92)
2014 Corte dei Venti Brunello di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – Good toward very good. I find a consistent freshness, and purity to these wines, and even in this challenging vintage, the wine still holds my attention. There’s nothing manipulated about this; it’s humble, honest, and worth your time/money. The acids are abundant, fresh, and the medium body is well into the AFWE spectrum (read: very traditional). Just 5,7k bottles produced; drink 2020-2029. I recommend giving it some air; night number two could very well be better. (90-92)
2014 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 
9/26/2019 – Very good; more so when considering the challenges of the vintage. Lovely, fresh, and nicely detailed effort full of red fruits, forest and undergrowth notes, fresh acidity, and clean, rewarding lines. In the top quartile of wines tasted this vintage; a wine with soul. 65k bottles produced; drink 2020-2029. (93-96)
2017 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Rosso di Montalcino 
9/26/2019 – I’ve been following/tasting these wines for more than 20 years now, and I’m really quite happy with the winegrowing of late. This rosso, even in a challenging vintage, has a subtle, humble freshness and personality that gives this wine a noticeable nudge upward in terms of its place among its peers. This won’t change your life, but it will deliver at or above your expectations for a modestly-priced rosso. Should drink pretty consistently from now thru 2025, though I’d tend toward the earlier end of that spectrum. 40k bottles produced; drink 2019-2025. (90-92)
2013 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
9/26/2019 – Darker brick-red, with a nose that leans more dark-fruited, than red. The palate is medium/medium(+), with fine tannins, a touch of savory and herbs, and the finish is good, though this needs several years before it’s showing all of its cards. That said, as much as I taste these wines, I just can’t seem to find the joy that others do – these seem more made than grown; I do approach them with an open mind, always hoping to find the freshness, the soul. So, I ‘liked it’ as it’s a pretty good effort, but it’s not something I’d buy (poor value). That said, I think many would be quite happy with it, just not me. Drink 2024-2039. (90-92)
2017 Castello Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino
9/26/2019 – Opens with too much EtOH; the nose is blackberries, plums, and overly fruity. The finish is short, the palate is simple. If my bottle was representative, this is a pretty poor effort. NR

This concludes part 2 of what will likely be a 5 or 6 part report. Need to get packing as I leave for another 3 months in Italia in just 2 days.


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